After a lesiurely breakfast where I had loaded up as knowing that there were not going to be Cafes on the road today, I rolled out of Te Anau at about 8.45am with the view at that time that I would ride to the Te Anau side of the Homer Tunnel, which was 100ks down the road so with the return would make a 200k day. However, somewhere down the road I started thinking that if Milford Sound was only 120ks, then perhaps I should just continue and worry about how I would get home again when I got there..
On that basis I should have then started the ride a lot earlier, but too late now.. I had not been down the Milford Sound before so it was all new ground and it was a lovely ride initially alongside the lake, before going inland and then when entering the Fiordland National Park, it was a totally different world of firstly a wide valley, then it closed up and the road going at times through lovely natural forested areas that provided a canopy over the road surface. In fact there was so much of a canopy that the tar seal had significant areas of moss growing other than in the wheel tracks which made riding a bit tricky as it looked slippery.
I was surprised that there was not as much traffic as I expected and it might have been because of my later start that most of the traffic had already gone.. There were though a number of tourist buses that I kept leap frogging as they would stop at various viewing points on the way.
The scenery got more dramatic the further I got into the Park and while I took a few photos on the way, as it was a bit of a hassle to continually get the tablet out of the backpack, I just had to keep going as was conscious of time and you cannot photograph everything..
It was a nice warm day and it was qreat to have sweat dripping off me instead of rain as it had been for the last few days and this was the first day since leaving home for the start of part 2 of the Odyssey where I was able to not wear arm warmers for at least part of the ride.
After Lake Gunn and then The Divide which is the start of the Routeburn and Caples and Greenstone tracks, the scenery became more spectacular as the road decended quite dramatically and the thought went through my mind more than once that I have to climb back out of here… Still, it was too good to stop now and would worry about that later..
It was quite a climb up to the entrance of the Homer Tunnel and you have to admire the Surveyors and Contractors to put a tunnel through a mountain at this altitude, especially when it was done in the early 1930’s.
There was a helicopter flying low in the valley that landed close to the road and off loaded a group of tourists.
The tunnel is controlled between daylight hours by traffic lights and there is a digital display showing how long it will be before the lights change and typically is seemed about 4.5 minutes.
The lights changed and to be safe I followed the last vehicle hoping that I would have something to follow. A brochure that I had read said that the tunnel was “dimly lit” and it was not wrong! It was as dark as I imagine the black hole of Calcutta to be and not having a light did not help either.. The brochure also said that the gradient was 1 in 10 and this felt a bit right and as well it was “raining” inside. Again the thought that I have to ride out of here crossed my mind several times but it was too late now. There was a road works sign mid way in the tunnel that I did see and just hoped that the road surface was okay as I could not see..
Finally coming out the other end was like being in another world and made it all worthwhile, absolutely stunning.. Very similar to the Alpes in France and immediately out of the tunnel you are then into some switch backs as you exit the tunnel at quite a high altitude. Then there were some sharp ramps (10 to 14%) still decending and again the thought that I have to climb out of here went through my mind, but too late now.. The decent just kept on going and going and it was a lot of fun although some of the surfaces in the joints on the one way bridges were very rough.
Just before arriving at Milford Sound, past the airport and then got to sea level and cruised around to the Ferry Terminal, the car park, or rather bus park, being full with buses.. Time for coffee and something to eat so cruised back to Blue Duck cafe to stock up.
While there I got a bit of a shock when I looked at the clock as it was 3.15pm, I did not realise that it was so late and knew then I would be in a bit of trouble even after I got out of the tunnel on the Te Anau side as still a 100ks to get home. The gears had been making a bit of chatter so thought that I would give them a lube before starting the return ride and then I saw the reason as one side of a chain link was broken..
If I was in trouble before, now I was like Roger Sutton and in “serious trouble”, but hopefully (unlike Roger) I could get myself out of it.. For a “pen pusher” like me, a mechanical like this is worst case scenario so I was grateful for the lessons that Al and GK had given me and thankful that at least it happened at Milford as against being on the side of the road half way up the mountain.. It is amazing what adrenaline can do as I was focused and did not need my special high defination specs bought just for this situation..
I took a bit of fiddling, but got it sorted which was a bit of a relief and quite satisfying for a pen pusher like me, but the issue was that it had taken a bit of time and was now 4pm with a 120ks to get back to Te Anau with a couple of big climbs..
It was a pleasant ride out of Milford as the sun was shining, there was no wind and minimal traffic. The climb was quite a grunt, but the good news was that you climbed quickly and the views kept your mind busy.. On the bottom of the switch backs you could see the building for the entrance to the tunnel so that was comforting although I was a bit concerned about the return trip through the tunnel based on the gradient, lack of light and whether I could complete it within the same traffic light sequence. A guy at the cafe at Milford had said to just wait in the tunnel if the light sequence changes and to keep to the side of the tunnel..
While waiting for the lights to change, a Kea very obligingly waited on a road sign while I took photos and would say that it enjoyed me talking to it that I would make it a star!! Beautiful birds.
Thankfully there was only 1 car in line and no buses, so when the lights changed off we went and the climb was not too bad although it was a strange feeling in the dark as the lighting was basically non existent and you were relying on taillights way in the distance and then finally a show of light.
Getting out of the tunnel on the Te Anau side on the same sequence of lights was a relief, even though I was not out of trouble yet, as still had 100ks to get home and it was already after 5.30pm. Still it was worth a celebration with a stop for food and to take in the sights before heading off on one of the great decents.
All the buses must have left Milford while I was sorting the mechanical, as traffic was very light and it was a funny feeling to be in basically the “wop wops” on my own..
When retracing my route it was a surprise to me for the amount of decine, which was obviously an incline going in, but did not notice it so much, but it certainly helped by now some tired legs. I was working on the theory that it always seems to take less time going out than what it does going in, on an out and back ride, but it still took a while despite travelling at a good speed assisted by the declining gradient.
For some reason at about 160ks, the Garmin started to go “hay wire” and I was doing according to it 200ks per hour.. The fact that the Garmin started to go hay wire was a real pain, as with the absence of road signs, it was just guess work as how far to go.. Some of the rivers were named 13 mile etc and I noted these white markers on the side of the road and worked out that they must be in miles so this gave me some indication but those last 50 or so ks were hard going..
In the forested areas it was quite dark and despite rear light, I did not want to get “Liberarged” so it was good to get out in the open, but despite the long evenings in the south, the light was going. I hoped that I would not get in trouble with Mr Plod as the last 30ks were in the dark and finally I got back to the motel at 9.50pm. Long gone were thoughts of dinner and a few beers and I was content with a hot shower and several coffees.. I had carried a mouse trap and piece of lolly cake all the way and ended up having them for dinner!
Despite the showing on the Garmin of over 300ks, actual distance was 240ks with a climbing elevation of 3,282m. A satisfing, if somewhat unplanned ride length with a bit of adventure on the side and pleased that I did it!!
I don’t know what went wrong with the Garmin as on the map it has shown a deviation into the bush and back again where there is no road..