Day 19 – Friday 31 October – Hamilton to Taumarunui

The day started with sun shine, but just as I was leaving the motel at 8.20am, down came the first shower, great, if this was going to be a sign for day and it turned out that it was!

In addition there was a wind from the same direction as yesterday, but just not as strong, or as gusty.

Got onto SH3 to head to Te Awamutu and the road out of Hamilton would be one of the worst that I have experienced for glass on the road, it was everywhere. The traffic was suprisingly heavy and it was like this all the way to Te Awamutu where there was a breakfast stop which was very much welcomed as in between there had been numerous very heavy rain showers and which make it quite cold.

The road surface was frankly awful with big chip seal and that was the theme for the day. I think that I can suffer a bit on the bike with the weather, ks travelled, riding companions etc, but I do struggle when the road surface is rough..and combine this with unfavourable weather it makes for a very unpleasant day.

On leaving Te Awamutu there was sun, for a short time anyway, then there was more rain and the skies were really dark grey and it ended up a day where it was rain jacket on, jacket off.

Followed SH3 through Otorohanga and then to Te Kuiti with a vicious climb out of the town which went on for a bit and then when you got to the summit you were immediately decending for then yet another climb.

The wind was still either on the nose, or on the side and it was the same as yesterday, so if yesterday was payback for the tail wind out of Dargavulle, hopefully the wind gods have got one in the bank for me for today!

Approximately 30ks out of Te Kuiti there was a junction for SH4 to Tongariro National Park which was the road I wanted as Taumarunui was my destination which was another 71ks away.. For the first 10ks or so, the wind was actually helping due to the direction of the road, but then it was back to same old, same old, with battling the wind and numerous ups and downs until finally reached Taumarunui.

The only consolation was that there was less traffic on SH4.

To add to the unusual seen on this trip, there were wild goats on the side of the road and talking to a local at the RSA at Taurmaruni, apparently there are goats a plenty in this part of the country.. I had seen heaps of rabbits as well.

In addition I have seen some houses where there has been washing machines and the like stored everywhere on the property, I mean everywhere.. makes you wonder how the inhabitants live like that..

Checked into a motel which according to their advertisement is the only motel with Sky in all their units, but it was a lovely room and even received a plate of home baking for supper! I was warned though to put Mr Scott inside as some guest had left their work boots outside their unit and they were gone the next day!!

Taurmaruni is another of those semi depressing towns that has apparently gone down hill since the closing of the freezing works, but is staging a recovery with tourism.

Dinner was at the RSA which was next door which is where I am writing the blog. The drinks is all done on a tab, but nothing is written down but they seem to know everything that is going on.

Total ks for day was 162, which puts me back on track following the navigation error yesterday, be it that I am 3 days ahead of the schedule that I prepared in the comfort of my lounge at home!. Total climbing elevation for the day 1,775m.

I have been forewarned about tomorrow’s ride over the Para Paras to Whanganui which is going to be another 160k day and even a local at the RSA tonight was shaking his head about riding a bike over the Para Paras.. Surely it cannot be that bad…!

I have had a few texts from people who have tried to place a comment on the blog and for some reason this does not seem to be working, so sorry about that, until I get it sorted it is all one way traffic!

Stage 1 of the 5 passes was today from Christchurch to Hanmer Springs so hope that they had better weather.

This trip is certainly improving my geography of the North Island!

Day 18 – Thursday 30 October – Papakura to Hamilton

What is it about Auckland and thunder storms!! I was awoken by the sound of thunder during the night that sounded like a rifle shot directly above the motel and then it started to rain and rain!

By morning the rain was down to scattered showers, but there was a very strong westerly wind. Due to the weather I was a bit later leaving and rolled out about 8.20am to be greeted with constant traffic all the way to Pukekohe. At least there was a good road shoulder where the tarmac on the shoulder was the same as the road surface and signs asking cyclists to ride on the shoulder so at least you knew this is where you were meant to be..

While there was a great road surface, this was negated by the effect of the wind which was basically directly on the nose, or on your side which was worse and with intermitent showers it was not that pleasant, so breakfast at Pukekohe only after 20 odd ks was welcomed.

Just as I was having breakfast I got a text from Spark advising that I had used all my data allocation, buggar, that would mean no more music as I was live streaming.. I was sure that I had seen a Spark store riding into Pukekohe so I would go there and get it sorted. Took off from the cafe and had to ask the Postie as to where the Spark store was and guess what, it was right next door to the cafe I was at.. I must have had a “man’s look” but I knew I had seen one! I changed the plan by increasing the data so hopefully now all good..

Not the easiest town to find your way out of, but got on the right road which went past Pukekohe raceway and the track goes really close to the road and was surprised as to how narrow it was and secondly how much of a gradient there is going into the main straight,the tv does not do this justice at all.

I was following a route from the Map application that put me on SH22. In hindsight, I should have just gone on SH1, as the Map application for the cycling route can often put you on a quite a convoluted route which is what happened today, combined with a naviagtion mistake on my behalf which added about 22ks in very undulating country, that also probably added at least an hour unnecassarily to the trip.

When I was still on SH22, but felt like in the wop wops, I finally checked the Map application on the tablet which was great in that immediately identified where I was, but buggar, I was off course and on the way to Raglan. I had considered going there in the planning stage, but had flagged it as it was a bit remote from the direction I wanted to go, both getting there and out of there.

I felt like a skipper in the round the world yacht race in that when you make a navigation error, you need to take your medicine and cut your losses as against carrying on.. This was the position I was in as within a couple of ks of the Map application establishing my position there was a road junction, 58ks to Raglan, or 25ks to Huntly. Decision time!

At least in the direction on Huntly the wind would also be more favourable as in the undulating country at the tops it was really gusty and the backpack acted like a sail making riding really tough and it would continue like this all the way to Raglan, as well as the road continuing to be undulating.

Not that it was not undulating to Huntly, the ups and downs were just relentless and the wind was never right behind you. Even when (finally) the twin stacks of the Huntly station came into view, the road took a somewhat roundabout way to get there, but finally came out at the back of the station. The twin stacks look huge when you are on SH1, but going past right next to them, they are enormous!.

After crossing the river to get to SH1, there was a cafe where I was able to get a coffee and some food as it had been a long hard day to this point and time to get the tablet out. It was 30 odd ks to Hamilton and 59ks to Te Awamutu which was my intended destination. As it was now 3.30pm made the call to flag Te Awamutu and just go for Hamilton and the quickest way possible which meant SH1 and the Waikato Expressway. At this point it started to rain, again, great! Plus the wind had not abated all day which was obviously pay back for the day I had a tail wind getting out of Dargaville!

The expressway was a souless bit of road and hard going with straights and rough seal, be it that there was a very wide shoulder and I took it all the way into Hamilton CBD with the wind being still basically right on the nose!. While on the expressway (cyclists were allowed) I could see a cycle way at a lower level which came from the side of the Waikato river after it was crossed, but could not see as to how to get down to it.

While at the cafe I had checked out accommodation options and seeing one what was close to a Speights resturant, when I saw the resturant I knew that I was close so this worked out well in that the motel was then easy to find. The motelier was a young asian guy who was most impressed with what I was going as he was a bit of a fine day “Sunday” cyclist himself.. Very obliging in that in showing me to the unit, even put the jug on!

Total ks for day were 133 with a climbing elevation of 1,911m. For those following on Garmin Connect and Strava, for some reason over the last 2 days the rides have not been downloading, but I think that I may have now sorted it, so that they should download after the next ride.

It was disappointing to not reach my intended destination of Te Awamutu which had it not been for my navigation error, despite the tough riding with the wind it would have been achievable, but will just have to make up the “lost” ks over coming days.

Day 17 – Wednesday 29 October – Wellsford to Papakura

During the night I was woken by the sound of the sound of rain on the roof and when I woke at 6am, there was horrendous thunder, lightning and torrential rain and then to cap it off, there was a power cut! The sky was as dark as.

The power came back on, but was somewhat erratic for the next couple of hours. Thankfully I could access the Met Service site with the tablet and the rain radar just had the Auckland area covered as one blob..

When the power came back on, the morning TV programmes were referring to the vicious electrical storm that was impacting particularly north of Auckland.

Great, I did not really want an enforced stay in Wellsford as what would you do for the day…! Tomorrow could also be the same. Decided to wait until closer to checkout time to make a decision, but I was keen to try and get across the city today even if it meant getting wet.

Later there was a clearing in the weather in that it stopped raining and actually looked a bit brighter. I decided that this was the sign that I was looking for, although in the knowledge that I was likely to get a wet backside at some time today.., but rolled out of the motel at about 9.15am.

I had decided to not retrace my route of getting to Wellsford through Helensville and Henderson, but to take the ferry from Devonport to downtown Auckland, but this would mean riding on SH1 for approx 40k till I could turn off and get onto the Hisbiscus Coast highway.

The ride started off okay, but then when the road narrowed and there were a few climbs, the heavans opened up and boy did it rain. It was just coming down in South Island West Coast fashion, although it was not cold.

The road shoulder was not great as there was a significant change in the height of the hot mix and how they you could be expected to ride on this as it was very narrow to the rumble strip and the surface was obviously rough.. I know that cyclists are perhaps not encouraged on this section of SH1 but the roading engineers need to look at the road surface from a cyclists point of view as frequently there was no option but to ride in the vehicle lane to the annoyance I am sure of the truckies.

In addition to the torrential rain which was already like standing in the shower, when trucks and trailers past you, it was like the shower was on turbo, except that in addition you got sprayed with all this grit for good measure.. At least I had only 40ks to put up with it but the turn off could not come soon enough which was right at the start of the northern motorway where it goes into a tunnel and there was a vicious climb but it was worth it to get out of the traffic.

Despite it being overcast and cloudy, there were great views over the bay but I could not be bothered to stop to get the tablet out for a photo.

The road then went through Waiwera, Hatfields Beach, Orewa and there were rather steep climbs out of each. Orewa was a stop for brunch and to recharge. It is amazing how much a bit of food and a warm drink gives you motivation to get going.

Before leaving Orewa came across a bike shop so took the opportunity to borrow a track pump even though high tyre pressure on a wet road is not a good combination but bike shops have been few and far between. The Maps application had given me a route to Devonport but it seemed a bit convoluted and as the rain was now back big time, I was going the shortest route down the Hisbiscus highway which at times ran very close to the northern motorway. There were numerous ups and downs until reached Takapuna and down Lake Street past Ami and on to Devonport where the fare to Auckland was $6, Mr Scott was no charge..

Even though this was mid afternoon, the number of commuters going both ways surprised me. Bikes and other wheeled vehicles were common place.

While Auckland was overcast, the weather had changed in that it was not raining and the sun was actually shining! It was like the harbour was a dividing line for the weather.

Out of the ferry terminal to Quay Street and then it was onto Parnell Road and then through Newmarket to reach Great South Road and then I knew I just had to keep on this road as I was intending to stay back at the same motel in Papakura that I had stayed coming up.

I was quite pleased with myself that I did not have to check the Map application.

Going past the Giant shop on Quay Street, I noted that it is now branded as Bike Barn..

There are sections of Great South Road where there is a good cycle lane and other sections where you literally get squeesed and need to be confident to just hold your line and position be it with a lot of the declines you are travelling as fast as, if not faster than the the traffic flow.

Going through some of the shopping areas, a lot of the clothing stores have their wares on racks on the footpath and if you wanted to buy a hoodie, or a rugby league jersey, this would be the place!

Made it to the motel and they have a vacancy in fact back in the same room, so all good. A good opportunity to clean Mr Scott as after the weather today he was looking a bit dirty and worn…

Good news for me was that the rain cover had kept all the contents of the back pack dry and you would not have got more of a test than today..

It is great to be back in the “modern” world with mobile coverage, after being a couple of days out of range, although the tablet seemed to get some coverage whereas the mobile got nothing in some of these areas.

Total ks for the day was 116 and pleased that I am now south of Auckland CBD, really feel like I am making progress south.

Day 16 – Tuesday 28 October – Opononi to Wellsford

I woke several times during the night and it was absolutely teaming down, so was thinking that I may end up with an enforced stay at Opononi (which would not be all bad), due to a southerly front that was coming up the island.

When I got up at 6am, it was heavily overcast and quite windy, but it was not raining and whats more the wind was a westerly which would be generally helpful, so as I was not going to give up this assistance, I rolled out of the motel at 7.10am with a quick chat to the motelier who is off to walk the Milford Track next week.

The harbour was looking totally different to yesterday and as I climbed up from the sea on SH12, rode into fog/cloud that basically got thicker and thicker and stayed with me for the next 50 odd ks. It was not cold and it was not actually raining, so it was quite pleasant riding on the undulating road.

The road was though wet so on some of the decents it was 70k+ and I had to button off a bit as did not want to end up literally on the road as the wind was a bit blustery, even though it was assisting.

There was a nice climb to enter the northern end of the Waipoua Forest which was open country to start with, but then went into thick bush and forest and the climb just kept on going and going. It was quite a nice gradient at between 5 and 7 % typically, but by now the fog had closed in and you could not see more than 30 metres in front of you. Finally after what must have been about 40 minutes, hit the summit (although there were no signs) and then it was a lovely ride through the forest a bit like riding through sections of the Haast highway.

While the fog had set in, it was a compulsory stop to visit Tane Mahuta (kauri tree thought to be over 2,000 years old!) which is simply impressive as are some of the “smaller” brothers in the vicinity.

Whether it is wet or fine, being in the forest is always special.

Just as I was about to get going again, it absolutely teamed down so it was a good spot to stay under shelter until it died down a bit.

While it was wet and foggy, the forest and road was magnificent as were the decents, although I was a bit cautious as there was a lot of fern foliage on the road following the wind of last night. It was fun in the wet, but it would have been a real hoot on a dry road surface as the road just continued to decend and decend with nice sweeping bends. Unfortunately I was going too quick to stop for “Darby and Joan” which is where the road goes between 2 massive kauri trees but there was then a pretty solid climb out of the forest and then it was into undulating farming country.

I suspect that if it had been fine and clear, there would have been some great views, but not today..

About 25ks out from Dargaville while the skys were still overcast, the road surface was generally dry and with the wind assistance it was very helpful as I was not feeling that great and my back was giving me a bit of a tickle up from the backpack.

If I felt like I was in a remote area yesterday, it was nothing to today, especially with little traffic and the heavy fog preventing any views.

Made it to Dargaville at lunchtime which would take the prize so far as the North Island town that I would LEAST like to live… I was thinking that I might stay here as per my schedule, but it was not flash and after lunch decided to push on to Wellsford another 97ks.

Before I left town I met a touring cyclist (male) from Solvenia who I had seen down the road when he was on the side of the road, but as I was decending at the time there was no time to stop and only a quick hello.. I think his name was Francee (yes he is a male) and it was good to have a catch up with him. He had started at Auckland and had ridden to the Cape and was working his way south so may well see him somewhere else.

Thankfully after lunch felt better and might have also been leaving Dargaville… There is a massive river/estuary that is a dirty colour and frankly looked all rather menancing so I was pleased to cross the big bridge and get out of the place.. There were some long straights, but with the wind assistance at times it was up to 40ks and the ks to Wellsford were clicking off.

Then the road became undulating and went through several small towns before SH12 ended wth finally joining SH1. Have I missed riding on SH1, NOT! It really makes you appreciate the quieter roads as the traffic was just continious and the road goes from having a shoulder on the left of the rumble strip to not having one so you have to cross the rumble strip..

At least I knew where I was going as intended to get to Wellsford so was retracing my earlier path and intended to stay at the same motel as it was a good set up and the Speights Hotel resturant was just down the road.

Misson accomplished and the motel had a vacancy.

Total for day 183k and a total elevation of 1,907m. Surprisingly the highest point was only 372m, it felt more than that..

Tomorrow all going well I want to cross and get south of Auckland city and intend to go another way than the way I came for something different!

Day 15 – Monday 27 October (Labour Day) – Kaitaia to Opononi

After yesterday it was a deliberately slow start this morning with a leisurely breakfast in house and I did not hit the road until just on check out time at 10am.

Despite the forecast for rain, it was overcast and relatively warm and as expected it was not that great to be back on the bike and the back pack felt particularly heavy, despite it only having extra a couple of apples, a mandarain and 2 bananas! Still it was intended to be a relatively quiet day with something like 75ks to Rawene.

After about 12ks the road moved away from the coast, not that it had been right on it and there were numerous climbs up various valleys, with a great road surface and the luxury of not a lot of traffic. The road continued to be undulating going through some lovely country and at times was at a reasonable height providing great views of the surrounding country. There were no photos as I was too tired, or lazy, to stop and get the tablet out.

There were places today particularly with no cell coverage and minimal traffic, that I felt very isolated.

Reached the point for the ferry to Rawene and timed it pretty well as the ferry was only about 10 minutes away and there was already quite a queue of cars. Not suprisingly given that it was a long weekend, there were no vehicles going north and at least I knew I was guaranteed passage but some did not make it on this trip and would have to wait for the next. They used every available bit of space on the deck to cram in every vehicle they could.

Grand cost for me and Mr Scott for the crossing, $2.

Today I was being a bit adventious and “winging” it from an accommodation point of view and the only accommodation in Rawene the Postmasters had a no vacancy sign, buggar. It was over 100ks to Dargaville and did not feel like that..

Still no cell phone or internet coverage at Rawene so unable to check the Map application.

On recharging at the local Cafe, in fact the only one, the owner said that there would be accommodation in Opononi and also the next town, which was only 20 minutes in a car (where have I heard that before) and that there were only 2 small hills (where have I also heard that!) before Opononi.

It was a climb out of Rawene and there might have been 4 climbs before reaching Opononi which is famous in 1956 for Opo the dolphin and is basically at the head of the Hokianga harbour.

It was great to find accommodation as I was starting to look for hay barns and the motelier said that they had been fully booked due to Labour weekend, but so far I was on the only occupant for tonight. So after doing the domestics with the washing, it was a shower and down to the local hotel for a few beers and dinner.. As I am writing this blog from the hotel, my table looks out over the harbour and the statue of Opo.

The tide is flowing swiftly and from the road outside the motel you can see the heads and bar to the harbour which itself is huge. On the other side of the harbour are very high sand dunes. The motelier has said that some orica have been seen in the harbour, but have not seen them. I was talking to a local fisherman who had not caught anything and was blaming it on the orica for scaring the fish away..

I have been out of cell phone coverage for basically all day, but was given a wifi at the motel, but this only seems to work if you are on Vodafone!

Total for the day was 98ks and I will now need to revise plan for where to from here, as originally had targeted Dargaville but should ne able to get further south all going well.

WHile I had been hoping to get to Dargaville today, that was perhaps a bit ambitious after yesterdays efforts.

Day 14 – Sunday 26 October – Kaitaia to Cape Reinga to Kaitaia

It was another early start and on the road by 6.20am after having called into town to pick up some food. I could have done this yesterday as I suspect that it was the same display, but no worries, a nice bacon and egg with lettuce sandwich and a lolly cake for lunch as well as having a heap of fruit.

It was colder than leaving Paihia yesterday, but this time although I had more gear on it was still very cool and while it was a clear day, when the sun did rise it took some time to warm up. The paddocks had a heavy dew and it felt that it was not far off a frost…

After about 45ks arrived at Pukenui and the road was 50m or so high above the sea and there was an inlet with a lot of boats moored, as well as some commercial fishing vessels. It looked really nice, however it was obviously tidal as on the way home it looked totally different!

The road opened up and there were a lot of up and downs going through some really nice undulating farming country. I could see the white sands on occasions on both sides of the coast and the landscape changed to more reminding me of the coast around Australia with the vegetation looking like it gets shaped by the wind, thankfully today was okay and it was now starting to get quite warm.

The cows in the adjourning paddocks to the road are obviously not used to cyclists as while they are just happy to graze when a car or motorcyclist goes by, as they hear me it nearly causes a stampede and then they turn around and stare as if there is going to be a charge forward!

A sign showing that there was 20ks to the Cape was welcomed, although I was counting the ks down on the Garmin anyway. The road over these last 20ks had some surprisingly large climbs so I was hoping that when I get to the Cape and turn for Bluff that it is in fact all down hill!

Nearing the Cape there were some beautiful views of the sea particularly on the west coast and the massive sand dunes in the distance.

While unlikely that anyone would steal Mr Scott at this location, I was not taking any chances as it would be a long walk home, so used my light lock as a deterent. I was pleased that I brought my sandels as although you could see the lighthouse, it was a good 10 minute walk away.

The views at the lighthouse looking down at the coast line were fantastic as were the colour of the sea which was a real bright blue. You could also see the currents of the two seas meeting and it would be an interesting place to be in a small boat.

There were the typical crowds all jostling for a photo and a selfie in front of either the lighthouse or the signpost and I made particular notice of the sign to Bluff which was 1,400 odd ks but that was as the crow flies. It was so lovely that I found a spot on the side of a grassy bank and enjoyed my picnic lunch. At the time I could not understand why others were not taking advantage of the site to do the same, but on reading a tourist book later found that I had broken protocul as it is a spiritual place and you are not supposed to eat there… Woops, sorry spirits, I hope that you will forgive me..

Walking back up to the carpark I did what many others have done before and walked off the track to get to a higher point for more photos.. stunning.

The Manager at the Hotel told me that when they do re-runs of the Porky Pie movie with a drive from the Cape to Bluff, the minis are small enough to fit between the bollards and drive down the walkway right to the lighthouse!

So at 1.20pm with Mr Scott unlocked and backpack on, I commenced the “start” of my Cape Reinga to Bluff ride and for the next 10 days or so, with every k I am getting closer to home.

It was a bit of a grunt on the return ride to Kaitaia as although my now the wind had come up, it was predominantly a westerly that was more helpful than not, but the climbs were still there. It was just a matter of counting down the k’s but it took a while to get to the 200k mark and then finally when back at the hotel it was 222ks for the day.

The elevation climbing was 2,498 so no wonder that the legs are a bit tender..

While it was a long day, it was very satisfying having truly got to the Cape on my own, but that was only the first objective, next one is to get home before commencing part 2.

The day was longer on the bike as most of it was done outside of cell phone coverage, so that means no music..

After arriving back at the hotel it was a quick shower, get the washing done and then in for dinner and managed a couple of beers before bed..

Had been asleep for a couple of hours when phone started making funny noises and a message under a new application from techo Phil Jones, thanks Phil, for the message not the wake up call!

I am completing this blog on Monday morning and my phone although was charging all night is non responsive even when power is going into it so have taken out the chip and reinserted and hopefully by charging it will come right.

In looking at the weather forecast on TV this morning it is rough for the lower half of north and although the forecast here was for rain, it is currently dry and overcast so lets hope that it holds.

My schedule was for a “quieter” ride today of 68ks to Rawene but I will see how I feel and whether I try for Dargaville which would be about 170k.

Day 13 – Saturday 25 October – Paihia to Kaitaia

I was on the road shortly after 6.30am and while it was clear and going to be sunny, it was quite cool and I was under dressed with arm warmers on. Heading away from Paihia on SH10 it goes into a shaded valley and was even cooler.. There were a number of accommodation places on this road which is a bit surprising given the lack of sun and any view!

Looking across at Russell I could see that most of the fleet from the Coastal Classic was now in.

The road was a bit lumpy to Keri Keri where there was a stop for breakfast. I had been tossing around at one stage whether to have a rest day in Keri Keri and am pleased that I didn’t as while the town was tidy enough, there was nothing that I found particularly of interest although appreciate that there is the Stone Store and some of the bays away from the town I understand are nice but would be an out and back ride.

I was disappointed though that I could not stop at some of the road stores, as oranges, avacados and mandarins were in abundance. I laughed at a store selling fudge and their sign which said “Get Fudged”, which certainly caught your attention and just amused me..

After riding through the town, the road then reconnected with SH10 and continued north with the road being lumpy, but not as bad as what I thought it might be with some good decents.

There was certainly more traffic on the road today, including towed boats, no doubt as a result of the long weekend.

I rode into Manganui which reminded me a bit like round the foreshore at Akaroa and then it was on to Coopers Beach and was surprised as to how large a residential area there was there although no doubt a number are holiday homes. There were beautiful views over Doubtless Bay and by now it was warm enough to take off the arm warmers. The day has probably been the best on tour so far in being sunny and cloudless but it took sometime for it to warm up!

The last 25 odd k to Kaitaia was done in reasonably quick time as the wind was generally favourable and the speed was generally over 35k.

Today was the first day that I have seen other cyclists, all going the other way and with both front and rear panniers on, yuk, but good on them.

I noticed a lot of “do upper” houses and also a number where the owners could have some assistance to “de clutter” their front yards..!

Found the booked accommodation with no trouble, the Orana Motorinn and while it is one of the most modern in town, it is a bit tired.

The Duty Manager put me into a studio that is actually 2 studios with an interconnecting door, so Mr Scott has his own room!! The reason that he did this was because I had a bike. The Duty Manager was also very helpful in contacting 3 tour companies who take trips to the Cape, but none of them were able to take a bike (unless it folded up!) although one has apparently recognised the need and their new bus to arrive in 3 weeks time can do, but too late for me.

I find this surprising as would have thought that it could be a common request. The Duty Manager offered to take me 30ks or so up the road tomorrow, but I politely turned him down.

It is basically 110k from Kaitaia to the Cape, so up and back is a 220k day.. I thought about staying somewhere between on the way back, but due to the long weekend, all accommodation has been taken, but would free up again on Monday, but that would mean spending a day in Kaitaia and I think I would go nuts, or further nuts if I had to do this.

On checking the NZ Met service site, while the forecast for tomorrow, Sunday, is fine and cloudy, Monday and Tuesday shows rain, so there is really no choice but to go tomorrow. I can make up for it by having an easy day on Monday..

I walked down town and it was all rather depressing really with the type of shops and closures etc, although there is a bakery that opens at 5am 7 days a week, so at least I can stock up on food for tomorrow early.

Luckily the Motorinn has an in house resturant as there was basically nothing in town, apart from take aways.. I am writing this blog after having my dinner which was all good and the dining room looks out over the pool so very pleasant and also noting what time is sunset as might be important for tomorrow!

As I had seen a Countdown when riding in, I rode back and purchased fruit for breakfast and for the ride tomorrow. This is a new Countdown and something that I have noticed on this trip is that especially in deemed lower socio economic areas, Countdown and Pak and Save supermarkets are very prominent. I know that everyone needs food, but these guys seem to have a huge market share.

I needed to use the heavy duty lock while at the supermarket and thankfully Mr Scott was still there when I returned!

While having my dinner I have been noting the time of the sunset as it could be a long day tomorrow.. In a way I am not disappointed that I cannot get a tour ride to the Cape, as this way I will be doing it all under my own steam, but will be interesting to see what I say tomorrow if mission is accomplished.. I should be at the Cape before midday so it is certainly doable. The tours do not leave Kaitaia until 9m and not back until around 5pm.

It will be a backpack day tomorrow, but I can cut out all unnecessary items, although there is not much and this will be replaced by food so basically will be same weight, if not even heavier.. I don’t want to risk it by not taking food as I don’t want to get stuck in the middle of no where needing food..

Today ended up as 125k and an elevation gain of 1,466m.

Day 12 – Friday 24 October – Paihia – Rest Day

Today was the second full day at Paihia and it was a total “no riding” day with a leisurely start, down to the town for breakfast again in a cafe overlooking the harbour and a walk around to Waitangi.

The Treaty House and the grounds are now all fenced off requiring anyone visiting to go through the tourism centre and of course the ticket to be clipped on the way.. Personally I find this somewhat sad as feel that the grounds should be open and accessible to everyone without there being a charge, despite the fact that the grounds is owned by one of the tribes.

I had walked up the road past the Treaty House onto the edge of the golf course which is in a prime spot overlooking the bay and met a local young maori guy and his girlfriend who were going fishing off the rocks below the Treaty House. They just walked through a gate that was open for contractors, so I thought that if it is good enough for them then it is good enough for me as well! All I wanted to do was to get close to the flagstaff and take a photo.

The grounds which are all in lawns sloping down to the sea are really beautiful and it was great to just sit down on a rock on top of a cliff and take it all in. Absoultely stunning.

Unfortunately the day was not quite the same as rain showers tended to come through as well as a bit of wind, but when the sun came out it was nice and warm.

After taking a few photos and then walking back to Paihia, with a compulsory stop for coffee and a brownie, it was back to the motel for a pool day and a nap!

With it being Labour weekend, there is definately more people about so obviously a number have taken the Friday off as well.

Today is the Coastal Classic which is a famous yacht race from Auckland to Russell, the start being in Auckland at 9.30am. There is a large fleet including the classics of Lion NZ and Steinlager 2 and I have been following the progress during the day and the racing tri Vodafone has broken it’s own record and is in in under 6 hours. As I sit at the resturant in Paihia writing this blog, I can see other yachts arriving.. The wind was obviously very favourable. Before I left the motel I saw on the news some guy doing it on a skiff powered by a wind kite! Mader that a cyclist doing a lap of NZ!

I could have gone on today, but I am glad that I have had the extra day here as when the tour really “starts” I want to keep moving and I am still ahead of my schedule prepared in the comfort of my lounge at home!

I have booked accommodation at Kaitaia for tomorrow, Saturday and Sunday, so am hoping to be able to get a bus to the Cape on Sunday, otherwise I will need to stay another day. It is 119k to Kaitaia, so hopefully can get there early enough to get the bus to the Cape arranged, although I suspect that it there are parts which are going to be quite lumpy! Looking forward to it though as from the map profile SH10 goes through some beach areas which I understand are very nice.

Total ks for the day on the bike, 0!

Day 11 – Thursday 23 October – Paihia to Russell “Tiki” Tour

Today is the first “rest” day of the tour and the first place that I have felt like spending time. I think that that is because it is close to the Cape and I feel I can relax as it is close, but also because it is such a beautiful place and I love being close to the sea.

The body obviously knew that it was a rest day as did not wake till 8am and then a leisurely walk into town for breakfast in a harbour cafe next to the pier. While I was there a helicopter landed next door on the landing strip and I had to laugh as the only passenger in the back was the pilots dog!

Back at the motel, there was a long over due clean of Mr Scott with the motel cleaning staff being very helpful in providing cloths to use. The cleaning staff also complimented me on how tidy my room was when they went to clean it!!

I then set off with only a “day” backpack and what luxury this was as it was still a good climb out of Paihia and another couple before reaching Opua and then the car ferry to Okiato for the massive fare of $1 which was lucky I had withdrawn some cash this morning as todate I have operated totally with the eftpos or credit card.

There is a ferry leaving from each side and crossings every 10 minutes and I found it surprising how many cars there were that just seemed to turn up and also those that were waiting when we got to Okiato.

It was great to be able to walk around the deck during the crossing and as soon as it docked and the front drawbridge was down, there must have been locals on board as they are gone, no waiting to be told..

It was then a rather stiff climb immediately which caused you to certainly feel your legs and then it was a bit up and down around various bays and past an oyster farm in what looked like mudflats, before a very sharp decent into Russell.

It was a beautiful day and it was getting rather warm so was starting to leak somewhat, which was all good as I take that as loosing weight thinking of my goal to loose 5kg on this tour.

You cannot visit Russell without going to the flagstaff which was a stiff climb with the first ramp 21% and then basically did not go below 15% and then with the left turn for the one way road to the flagstaff itself it was 22% recorded on the Garmin so I was “leaking” some more when I got to the flagstaff. The views were absolutely magic and I had it all to myself so really peaceful to take it all in while having a mini picnic.

You can see private residences set on top of ridges that would have a fantastic view over the bay and I would suggest a fantastic price to go with it.. You can certainly see that there has been some $ spent on “holiday” homes.

I could live here, but suspect that I don’t have the bank balance to support it and guess that it is also totally different during the busy holiday season and around Waitangi Day.

I then rode down to I think Tapeka beachfront and heading down the road I knew that it was would be a grunt coming back up as the Garmin was showing between 19 and 21%. Great! On riding back up though a council truck was there and the workman gave a thumbs up in appreciation for the ride! yeah!

On returning to Russell it was a well earned large flat white and an equally large ginger slice while taking in the views.. It is a good time to be travelling as while there are people about, it is no where near peak although I suspect that things will busy up over Labour weekend.

It was a $7 fare for Mr Scott and me back to Paihia and then it was a ride around to Waitangi and the road above the golf course until it went to gravel. The views over the bay are just spectactular.

It amused me in the car park at the Waitangi Treaty House of a sign advising of risk of thefts from cars which to me seemed rather ironic given the significance of the site.

Riding around the Waitangi THC brought back memories of 2 work conferences that had been held there, lovely setting.

Back to the motel and as it was a rest day, time for a swim in the pool and a bit of a nap prior to dinner. I have gone Indian tonight and decided to try hot and was then asked whether I wanted my curry European hot or Indian hot. I chose European hot which blew my mouth out despite numerous cooling Kingfisher beers!! At one stage I slid under the table and it was not from the hot curry, but cramp which set in.. A bit embarrasing with a restuarant full on diners!

When I was reviewing my ride today I forgot when I was in Russell to get a photo of the Saint Peter Chanel monument on Chapel Street, buggar..

The day ended up a total of 34k, but that included the car ferry and also the ferry crossing from Russell. There was a total though of 604m elevation of climbing so it was not like I did nothing!

Tomorrow should be a totally free bike day to truly give me and Mr Scott a day off!

Day 10 – Wednesday 22 October – Wellsford to Paihia

The tune of Willie’s “on the road again” could be heard at Wellsford just after 7.30am when I rolled out of the motel to be greated by a heavily overcast sky and rain looking like it was going to threaten, but warm enough as again no arm warmers.

There was a great decent basically immediately to get out of town, but this was followed by a steep incline which certainly got the blood pumping..

Within 5 minutes it was raining quite hard.. great, if this is what the day is going to be like too late to get jacket out so just continued and thankfully while wet it was not cold and then after about an hour the day looked like it was improving and then continued to improve.

It was 80 odd k to Whangarei and it was a bit lumpy for the first half with a really nice climb with a great smooth road surface, unfortunately at the summit (forgotten the name but less than 300m) I felt that by now familar feeling of a soft front tyre… wtf is going on! I have had nearly as many flats this tour as the number of complimentary hotel rooms that have been provided to Len Brown for his dalliances..

The cause was a small piece of glass, the tyre itself showing no sign of wear, but with a wet road there is always an increased risk of a flat and there is a bit more weight with the backpack even on the front as my forearms have been quite sore for the last couple of days as I guess they are absorbing some of the weight.

From approximately 30ks out from Whangarei the traffic was just continious in both directions, cars, trucks, camper vans.. I had forgotten that the road goes right next to the coast for a short distance and would have been a great photo out to the islands if the day had been a bit brighter…

Found the Avanti shop in Whangarei and purchased 3 inner tubes cost $45!. Last night I was looking at my bank account on line and the 3 inner tubes I purchased from Avanti in Hastings cost $38.97 which at the time I just paid by eftpos and did not look at the amount, but I purchased the same inner tubes from a bike shop in Napier for $8 each.

I opened up the packaging to leave this with them (as all weight and easier to just pack the tubes) and it always annoys me when the inner tube is not nicely folded, it is nearly not like that it has been used, but at least the packet opened..

The guys in the Avanti shop were encouraging me to take an alternative route to Paihia which involved riding to Russell and then getting the ferry. This stage of Russell to Whangarei is used in the Tour of Northland, obviously going the other way and the way I would be going would be easier. They said that it was a far nicer road than SH1 with great views, less traffic and some nice climbs, but it was also further, by my calculations about 20k. Having already done over 80ks and those in the Tour of Northland do not have backpacks and the total stage is only 97k, it was a nice idea but I flagged it.

The route is also remote with no towns or shops after you turn off SH1.

I am pleased that I did as I think I would have struggled as it was difficult enough on SH1 with some really sharp climbs and even when you think you are there (Paihia), there are further inclines. When I thought from my calculations that I was about 12k out, reached a town of Kawakawa and the road sign said 17k.. buggar, this is very demoralising when you are getting tired as you could do without the extra ks.. I opted that I would stop for a coffee but after a climb in a residential area I must have missed the town itself as the next thing I am in an open speed limit area. Well I am not going back so just continued and at the top of the next climb decided I would stop for a picnic of almond nuts.. Just as I was about to sit down on a grassy bank, noticed the skin of what looked like a pig, so no way that I was stopping there!

In regard to dead animals, what I have noticed since being in the North is the number of signs advertising home kill services something that I have not seen at home or at least noticed.

It was good to finally make it the day being 151k. There was also a total accent of 1,828m and decent of 1,907 so you can see that it was an up and down day.

The motel has a pool that is 28 degrees and a spa, so just what a tired cyclist needs. The lady motelier was very impressed with the travels for the day, what had been achieved and what is planned.

I am staying here 3 nights with check out on Saturday so am looking forward to having some rest and recreation before the “real” tour starts which is now only a days ride away..

Even with staying a couple of nights here, I am ahead of schedule and can then probably flag the rest day that I had scheduled at Kaitaia, although the only issue might be whether Labour Weekend has any impact on getting a ride in a bus to the Cape.

It has been a oouple of years since I was last in Paihia but there has been a lot of high end holiday accommodation.

There was also a sign advertising the harbour swim on 22 November. Any takers…….?